El Mercado Municipal Nro. 4 de Asunción es un lugar al que muchos llaman "un mundo dentro de otro mundo" o "un mundo aparte", etc. Yo preferiría llamarlo "un ecosistema dentro de la ciudad". Sí, porque miles de elementos vivos que día a día habitan esas 6 manzanas, de alguna forma encuentran la manera de autosustentarse. Es un lugar que da trabajo a más de 10mil personas, y recibe prácticamente la misma cantidad cada día. El Mercado Guazú (mercado grande) anteriormente estaba conformado en las primeras décadas del siglo, en una de las manzanas que hoy ocupan las 4 plazas del microcentro. Luego fue mudado al lugar donde lo conocemos hacia 1940, en las zonas donde antes existían las quintas de famosos apellidos de la época que hoy las llevan sus calles: Batilana y Gines. Con la creación de otros mercados municipales antes, el Mercado Guazú cambia no sólo de ubicación sino también de nombre. El Mercado 4, ese ecosistema que guarda misterios y códigos propios, que se mueve a su propio ritmo, que maneja el sustento de muchas almas y que es indiferente a lo que pasa fuera de sus calles, hoy forma parte de esta historia que quiero compartirles. Una historia de un día en el Mercado 4 -pero no un día cualquiera-, en un día especial como el 24 de Diciembre, donde las señoras y los trabajadores esperan a aquellos que harán sus compras de Navidad de última hora, aquellos que comprarán sus verduras o frutas para cena, o aquellos errantes como yo que hoy sólo vinieron a buscar aventura. Y créanme que la encontré, porque eso forma parte de la magia de este lugar. | The Municipal Market No. 4 in Asunción is a place that many call "a world within a world" or "another world", etc. I prefer to call "an ecosystem within the city". Yes, because every day thousands of living items that inhabit those 6 blocks, somehow find a way to support themselves. It is a place that employs over 10 thousand people, and get almost the same amount of visitors each day. The Mercado Guazú (big market) was previously formed in the early decades of the century, in one of the blocks that currently are occupied by 4 squares in downtown. He was then moved to where we know about 1940, in areas where previously there were the villas of famous names at the time that today the streets are: Batilana and Gines. With the creation of other municipal markets before Mercado Guazú, it changes not only location but also its name. Mercado 4, an ecosystem that holds mysteries and codes of their own, moving at their own pace, which manages the livelihood of many souls and is indifferent to what happens outside their streets, now part of this story that I want to share . A story of a day in the Market No. 4 -but not an ordinary day-, on special day such as December 24, where the ladies and workers await those who do their Christmas shopping last minute, those who buy their vegetables or fruits for dinner, or those like me wandering today only came for adventure. And believe me I found it, because that is part of the magic of this place. |
11:20 - The Awnings located on Batilana street, save under they mantle, fruits, herbs, vegetables, objects and many things that make the phrase "In the market there is everything", not an exaggeration.
In one of several buildings that have the Market 4, I found an altar where they worship various figures, saintly or pagan, but the main it was a St. George, patron of workers.
Part of the peculiar characteristics of the Market 4 get it through their awnings that give a reddish or orange color to everything underneath. Batilana street, years ago ceased to be circulated by vehicles, vendors now occupied much of it with their small businesses, some mounted on the fly and others who had their modifications over time.
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A man observes the prices of fruits, while I listening he ask for melons. Stationary fruits and more representative of the christmas are always the grape, watermelon or cantaloupe, often accompanied with some food for Christmas dinner and New Year, or directly to make a clericó (fruit salad with cider).
Remains of leaves and husks of corn, form a carpet in a part of the market. The urban sanitation workers of the Municipality, are expected to clean today, under the new administration of Mayor Samaniego.
Some locals from mid-November are decorated with Christmas themes.
Outside the stores is no exception, where their are not only decorated with Christmas themes, but they sell items for the tree or house, like balls or wreaths.
Products for Christmas basket, such as wine, cider, candies, bread, canned peaches, candy, etc., are also the most popular in these times.
The heat of the day feels both from above and below where the sun normally does his own thing, and Rca. of Colombia and Batilana street, the burguer sellers rise the temperature in the sector, but lured by the smell of beef cooked in an iron.
Following the motto "In the market 4 you have everything", in street stores we found many things, T-shirts of the most famous sports brands. And in this era especially, Christmas decorations of the most varied.
An esoteric shop, also Santeria, are stores that today usually sell objects of religious veneration and spiritual. This store seduced and invited to visit with its strong apple aroma of incense, while their Christmas lights all combine with the darkness that hid inside, gave him a touch of mystery.
Apart from Christmas decorations, summer also felt in small shops that were assembled and expanded over time, as in this case selling light dresses, sarongs, scarves, etc.
Boxes and boxes of different brands of beer are stored in the reservoir La Estrella, where trucks, vans and individuals buy in bulk or for consumption, in this time where sales of alcohol increase unfortunately.
And with surprise but at the same time without it, near the depot for the sale of beer, I could not find another "character" than Diego Perez (the drunken of the trees), noticeably thinner, but just as cool as ever. This time wearing a skol pack under his arm, which already missing a couple of cans.
Despite prohibitions on the sale of bombs in crowded conditions, as mandated by the municipality, there are people who can not stop selling fireworks, because otherwise they would lose a few Guarani at this time.
The streets inside the Mercado 4 were roofed with pulse and improvisation, where the tangle of wires and cables go and cross each other, like the tops of the trees in a dense forest
12:02 - Once again, the clumps of people. More people coming to the Market 4 for their last minute shopping, especially on the understanding that many left work at the moment and came up here.
A team of workers of the street cleaning department of the Municipality of Asunción, walking through the stores to get their tools after lunch. The idea is to clean the market for Christmas Day, which will visit Samaniego.
I'm on the first floor of the building which became known as "Municipal Market No. 4" in the 60's, in the streets Republic of Colombia and Levera. Here operate canteens where hundreds of people per day come to feed the half-day, or search empanadas for the tereré rupá (you should eat some snacks in the morning before start drinking tereré). These kitchens are also supported by COPESA GAS, who not only painted the walls, but gave the posters and signage of the locals. When I refer to "also are supported", I refeers about the Municipal Market No. 1, that you may have seen in my previous post "Welcome October Bogeyman".
In this fourth floor, the message is clear and direct, not using secrets or big words. I think sometimes one must come to an end, and as a personal opinion I think that end is that the Municipality NO TAKE PART in send crews to clean up the market. Thus, the people themselves will realize that the garbage that is left conveniently seduced by gravity is their own responsibility to put it together and throw it where it belongs, or it is comforting to know that someone always clean the mess.
Trash cans with clean wheelbarrows sleeps on the fourth floor. At this time I think about that every day the cleaning staff must do this tour of four floors and eight ramps, then take to the streets on foot and keep the city clean. It's a job that nobody wants to do but rather that it is easier to complain about the dirt behind a computer.
To my surprise, on the third floor I found a school that works in this building. A place that offers education and breakfast to over 250 children of women workers and vendors of the market, day after day in class times. It has a dining room to the side and these guys are the beneficiaries of the campaign "a glass of milk", which unfortunately in the past some authorities with lack of humanity deprived it of the future of the country. A real shame given me those authorities, because today I witnessed the reality of these children, where they have to come every day to receive his teaching, to give their exams, to do their homework. And I'm sure many do it becouse this breakfast rather than education.
Between the first and second floor there is the San Pedro Radio "The Voice of the Market 4". There I met the director, Bernardo Lezcano, who is known as Beby. I must confess that I did not expect until he told me: he is blind. The way they greeted me, the way it seemed looked at me, and accuracy of auditory acuity makes more than one be surprised by the news.
Beby is a man of great heart, as I could see those minutes I shared with him and his son, who was also apparently blind. He invited me to go back to his radio, he spoke about his relatives outside the country, he asked me where to give him the data of this blog, and told me about his schedules and prices to be in the air. We talked each about our passions (for him on the radio, for me photography). And I said -and we both agreed-, that passion is what we do and do not make money with it.
A wheelbarrow lies under a carpet of water, willing to keep doing their morning trips, ready for the next great adventure between boxes, fruits, vegetables, legs and sidewalks.
Indeed the phrase "In the market 4 there is everything" is satisfied. I find a parrots vendor with a specimen over his shoulder like a pirate, and the famous "cigar po-guazú" (cigar for big hand) due the thickness.
On the street Rodríguez de Francia the picture does not vary much, people passing in the streets, between buses, cars and motorcycles. The sidewalks are almost full of people, and when you need to move fast is to make the best out of them.
At the intersection of Rodríguez de Francia and Otazú streets, is the bomb sales store of Eulalio, who 25 years ago working with this. Now, he and his children wear uniform shirts of "One Hundred Fires" and told me that years ago stopped selling Luque bombs due to their instability and poor quality. He works only with Brazilians explosives, that since the presentation give an air of greater security and reliability. When I asked him about the issue of the square where the Municipality wanted to send bombs vendors told me: "In the square we do not sell anything, I'm six months ago to raise money for this time to buy all these bombs that I sell before end of the year. Those who decide for us are those who have their salary and bonus insured and they do not think that it's practically our bonus". I had nothing else to say, because I understood that in the urban world and in the jungle, one must be risky to survive even on the verge of death.
A woman is removed with a Christmas basket, which can be purchased at the Market 4. These baskets are made with some basic products such as wine, cider, nougat, canned peaches, pastries and others, at a price which is almost the same to buy them separately, but with the detail of a fixed basket and ready to gift.
13:25 - The traffic seems chaotic in Rodriguez de Francia Avenue, but are located in every corner traffic cops to spped it up. In fact, the movement of vehicles is slow as usual, and unlike previous years, there is no long jams.
The smell of rain is already being felt in the environment, and this lady starts to cover his small shop on R. de Francia, taking advantage against the weather.
Vehicles are go, vehicles are coming, people walking and goes, everything looks like a normal day in Market 4, except that the sky was turning gray slowly and the sun's heat stops burn the necks.
13:35 - That street that just seemed crowded with vehicles and people, with the arrival of the rain seemed to dissolve. People sought refuge in these awnings that I so much talked about in this story, or in the stores, or in their vehicles.
A man was covered from the rain with a piece of cardboard while waiting for the bus.
Others, like me, we held that the rain was just water. Actually, I was totally wet and a little more rain would not make the difference, rather than on my camera.
The awnings over the Batilana guarding the water as much as they could, when the rain started to take more strength to become what seemed an eternal stream. People throng all wet, the soil water level increased, and the ladies of the shops shouting "Prosperity! Prosperity!".
The water become flood, and the flood invaded the streets. People with an air of resignation was traveling with nothing to do, dipping their shoes and carried away by the situation. The problem that causes the water decreases in sales in a special day like today, though the rain lasts just 20 minutes.
Sidewalks Market 4, become a narrow passage, where hundreds of people find it impossible to walk. They know they have yards and yards of people in front or back, where they fight to continue, stop, and in intersections will become prisoners of the water flowing.
Despite the rain, some places can not hold his pace and sales should continue.
Other people like me, and had enough Mercado 4 by today and we will coming back to our houses, among the jets of water and the incessant rain.
Rainfall decreases in intensity to become drizzle, and then nothing. Everything returns to normal, the rain has passed, and hearts and streets were cleaned, the nerves subsided and Market 4 recovers part of its nature. That nature where this place is moving at their own pace, which operate with their own codes and will continue hiding their secrets and mysteries.
Muchas gracias una vez más por acompañarme en esta aventura hasta el final, me alegra que no te hayas mojado como yo. Pero el agua es bonanza, como decían las señoras en el mercado 4 en medio de los chorros que caían de los toldos y el desespero de los demás que corrían a refugiarse. El agua vino en buen momento con el fin de aplacar el calor y hacer olvidar los problemas de las personas que se sacrifican día a día en este lugar. No sólo el agua puede hacer eso, también nosotros con nuestros gestos mínimos hacia ellos. Recuerden que miles de gestos mínimos, provocan una avalancha de resultados positivos. Por eso cada vez que paso por el mercado, me compro una chipa o me tomo un jugo. Hasta ahora no me ha pasado ni he leído que alguien murió por hacer eso. Y con ropas y zapatos puedo decir que la mayoría de las veces opté por comprarlos de ahí, me resultaron más baratos y si pierden su vida útil no me pesarán en el bolsillo. Hoy he fluido como el agua en el mercado, me he movido con su ritmo, he recorrido sus pasajes y he compartido minutos con su gente. Con lo poco, se puede hacer la diferencia. | Thank you very much again for joining me in this adventure to the end, I am glad that you have not wet like me. But water is plenty, as they said the ladies in the market 4 among the water falling from the awning and the despair of others running for shelter. The water came in good time to allay the heat and make forget the problems of people who sacrifice every day in this place. Not only water can do that, but we also with our minimal gestures toward them. Remember that thousands of minimal gestures, causing an avalanche of positive results. So every time I pass by the market 4, I buy a chipa or I take a juice. So far I have not been nor have I read that someone died for doing that. And with clothes and shoes I can say that most of the time I chose to buy there, I find them cheaper and if they stop being useful it wouldn't weigh in my pocket. Today I flow like water in the market, I've moved with his pace, I have visited their alleys and shared minutes with his people. With so a little, you can make a difference. |
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